O'Dempseys Country - from the Ordnance Survey Letters for Offaly, 1837-1838

The Ordnance Survey Letters for County Offaly, part of a country wide series, are commonly known as O'Donovan's Ordnance Survey Letters, after John O'Donovan, the famous historian.

The Ordnance Survey Letters of 1837-1838 represent the first attempt on a systematic basis to collect material on Offaly's historical and archaeological remains. The pioneering effort of the Ordnance Survey and of its topographical department in particular was not emulated until the publication some 150 years later of the Archaeological Inventory of County Offaly. O'Donovan's Ordnance Survey Letters are in manuscript form in the Royal Irish Academy and were published in a typescript by Fr. Michael Flanagan in 1933.

The Offaly material consists of letters of John O'Donovan and of Thomas O'Conor. O'Conor, a native of Carrickmacross, was assistant to O'Donovan. Both men had spent September, October and November of 1837 in County Westmeath and in late December of 1837 their attentions turned to Offaly, then and until 1920 called King's County. The letters concern local antiquities, place-names, early Irish history and the genealogy of the native families

It should be noted that in the Westmeath letters are one of John O'Donovan's from Tullamore and another from Edenderry. That from Tullamore is dated 1st January 1838 and could properly be in the King's County volume. In this first letter written from Portarlington in late December 1837 O'Donovan speculates on the history of the O'Dempsey's, who's lands forfeited included the district of Porrtarlington where the settling of the new town begun in earnest after 1690.

[Letter no. 1 from John O'Donovan ]

Portarlington,
December 18th 1837.

Dear Sir,

We are suffering most awfully from the rain, but no matter, I will not leave this County till I examine it minutely. It is of great importance as our writers have pointed out but very few of its pagan and primitive Christian localities. We are now investigating the Territory of Clanmaliere and have made several discoveries but we have not sufficient data to illustrate them satisfactorily.

I wrote for a passage in the Four Masters about the Bell of St. Evin, which was preserved in the Country of the O'Dempseys but it has not been sent me. It is to be found as sure as I exist and I beg that it will be sent. [South East Offaly]

Does the name Cluain Thorc or Cluain-Da-Thorc occur in the Annals? (It does).
[Ballykane]
Does Baile Ui Chein or anything like it occur as the name of the mansion seat of O'Dempsey? It is pointed out at this day, about six miles north or north and by west of Portarlington, as a Townland containing a small Church in ruins, a castle effaced with the exception of six feet of one round tower, and parts of the walls of a Bawn, said to have been the Castle of Lord O'Dempsey (others say that O'Conor Faly lived here who, when he was invaded, leaped clear and clean over the trench and left Ireland, where he was never seen since) Viscount Clanmaliere, who lost his property during the last War of Ireland. [1690's]

Not far from this castle on the verge of a bog, is shewn a curious entrenchment called "the Sconce" resembling the site of Felim O'Conor's Palace at Clonfree near Strokestown and said to be the fortification thrown (sunk) up to defend O'Dempsey's wooden house (locally "Frame House").

It is probable that this was the site of the House of the Chiefs of Clanmaliere before they erected the adjoining Bawn in comparatively modern times. In the same Townland is shewn O'Dempsey's Ring, resembling one of the Bull-rings in Westmeath, but larger, at which this nobleman is said to have trained his horses, and from this ring to the castle is shewn the track of an old road, but much (I may say almost entirely) effaced, by which he led his horses to the Castle.

Not far from the old Church is pointed out a spewy spot which formerly contained three holy wells sacred to St. Fionnan, at which crowds of pilgrims were accustomed to perform Stations about three generations back but now entirely neglected (forsaken). Do any of our Hagiologists make mention of these Wells of St. Fionnan?

The Village of Clonygawn, lying about three miles to the northwest of Portarlington in the parish of Ballykene, contained a residence of a branch of the O'Dempsys but, as there are no ruins of a castle there. I suppose that it was only a wooden house surrounded by "a Sconce". The place is a cluain.

The Four Masters refer to this at the year 1576:-

"Owney, the son of Hugh O'Dempsey, was treacherously slain in his own residence of Cluain na nGamhan."

There are the ruins of another castle of the same family in the Townland of Raheen (near the roadside). Is this mentioned by the Annalists?

I want the description of the boundaries of Ely O'Carroll, as given in the English Records. I have inserted it in a note to the Annals but it has not been copied. Why? I shall be only groping in the dark without those lights.

Are there any descriptions given of the limits of Delvin Mac Coghlan or Farcall (Feara Ceall) in any of the early Inquisitions or other English documents?

The Extracts from Colgan should be sent us immediately. We are about to separate: O'Conor goes to Edenderry and I go to Tullamore, where he joins me as soon as possible.

It is horrible weather and the Name Books are as bad.

Your obedient servant,
J. O'Donovan.

Finished this letter at Tullamore on the 29th of December, after having visited that part of Ofalia in the Queen's Co.

THE TERRITORY OF ANCIENT OFFALY

O'Donovan's second letter written a few days before Christmas 1837 draws on the 1560's map of Offaly and Laois in T.C.D. (the subject of an article in Offaly : History and Society (1998) and also the English act of 1557 allowing certain clan territories to be incorporated in the new counties of Laois and Offaly (Queen's and King's).

[Letter no. 2 from John O'Donovan ]

Portarlington,
December 20th 1837.

Dear Sir,

Having finished that part of Clanmaliere lying on the Philipstown side of the Barrow and having, since the year 1830, an intimate acquaintance with that portion of it lying in the Queen's County, on the Maryborough side of the same river, I shall now - lest I not live to do the Queen's County - point out the limits of that famous country of the O'Dempsys.

The Abbe Mageoghegan describes the extent of Clanmaliere thus:-

"Clan-Malagra, autrement Clenmalire S'etend de deux cotes de la Riviers Barrow, dans le deux comtes due Roi & de Reine, & embrasse les Baronnies de Geashill & Portnehinch. Ce territoire etoil possede par differentes branches des O'Dempseys de la race de Heremon, par le monarque Cahire-more & Rossa Failge sons fils." - Tome Premier, page 212.

This description is from mere conjecture and is very incorrect, for Clanmaliere never comprehended any part of the Barony of Geashill and we shall see presently that the Barony of Portnehinch will not embrace (it will, exactly - J O'D.) that part of it which lay on the other side of the Barrow.

The outline of this sketch of Clanmaliere is from a curious old Map of Leix and Ophaly, preserved in the MS. Library of Trinity College. It seems to have been made at the time that these territories were reduced to Shire ground, in or shortly after the reign of Philip and Mary. The names are corrected from the Annals of the Four Masters and in some instances the modern spelling given.

I shall first give the Act of Parliament by which Leix and Ophaly were formed into Counties and then proceed to point out the Cantreds of Triocha Cheds into which Ophaly was subdivided in the early Irish Times. This can be done by the assistance of the old Map of Leix and Offaly (Ophaly) already mentioned, illustrated by the Topographical Poem of O'Huidhrin and the notices in the Irish Annals, without the aid of both which the Map could not now be well understood. This is the true mode of illustrating the ancient topography of Ireland and not by bold assertions and vague references to MSS., by which the writers of Irish history and topography have rendered their subject so ridiculous that the learned look upon them and their subject with indifference or contempt.

It is probable that many similar maps of ancient Irish territories are still extant in public and private libraries in England; I mean maps of territories made previously to their being distributed into hundreds of Baronies. Such maps would, like the present, much facilitate my topographical researches and save me much time, thought and labour.

You sent me a description of Mageoghegan's Country of Kinel Fiach to Westmeath, which would be of use here. Are there any similar description of territories in the same volume? ...

We next give O'Heerin's account of the seven territories in ancient Ofalia, a
curious record:- ...

The Lord of Ofalia, land of cattle -
A fact not unknown to poets-
Is O'Conor, hero of the plain (Ofaly is the levelest plain in all Ireland).
Around the green Hill of Cruachan (1)
Of the people of this wide plain
Let me treat of the chiefs;
What host is richer than they
Over the fair lands of Ofalia?
Over the Hy-Regan of the heavy onslaughts
A vigorous band who rout in battle
Rules O'Dunn, chief of demolition (2)
Hero of the golden battle-spears (lances)
(General Dunn is the present head)
Another chief to me well known,
O'Hennessy rules o'er Clar Colgan.
Fair his country beyond Ireland's territories
Which borders on the grass (3) of Cruachan
O'er Tuath-Da-Moy of the beauteous bulwark,
Reigns O'Mulkene of the rich heart,
Delightful his smooth Tuath of Moy (4)
Its borders like "the Land of Promise",
"The Bright Tuath Geisill is possessed
By a chief on the half-border of Leinster (5)
Whose tairm (troop?) goes as a fierce strong tairm (?)
His name is O'Hamirgin (Mergin)
Over Moy-Aoife of the warm plains
O'Marragham is a lord of a tuath
The man (hero, vir) who lives near Green Fidh Gaibhle (6)
What country is faster against incursions?
Clann Malura over every tribe
Noble the dolngs (step?) of their septs,
Their land a smooth plain-protection of the harbor (7)
A land hereditary to O'Dempsey.
Delicious the land, as heard afar (i.e., of old)
The Tuath of Leighe of the bright plains (field)
O'Kelly of Leige on the east of the strand (Traigh) (8)
Is the spouse of this plain of the knotty yews (of dells and yews)
From Ofalia of ancient lands,
We next approach Leix in Leinster."

1. Or over the Green Hill of Cruachan O'Conor is Lord of the vast plain of Ofalia and of the Hill of Cruachan. The Hill of Cruachan is the most remarkable feature of Ofalia. It gives the title of Marquis to the family of Moore.
2. Taoiseach na Toghla i.e., able to batter walls and knock down castles & houses, a very noble qualification in O'Heerin's time.
3. Grass of Cruachan, literally the hair of Cruachan.
4. Land of Promise i.e., overflowing with milk and honey, like the Land of Promise mentioned in the Old Testament.
5. Half Border of Leinster. Keating says that the boundary of ancient Meath passed through Geishill. The Tuath of Cantred of Geishill was then partly in Meath originally. (No! it was only on the borders of it).
6. Fidh Gaibhle, a famous wood in Leinster, the mast of a ship taken from which created a dispute which ended in the Battle of Clontarf. The situation of this wood can now be pointed out.
7. He must allude to some small harbor (cuan) on the Barrow?
8. By Traigh, which is generally and properly applied to the strand or seashore, he must, by his usual mode of amplification, mean the brink of the River Barrow. This will appear clearer hereafter.

THE TERRITORY OF ANCIENT OFFALY

This article from John O'Donovan's O.S. letters is divided here into two parts and deals with the seven subdivisions of the old territory of Offaly, which as O'Donovan states included part of the present day Kildare and Laois. The setting up of the new counties only in part respected ancient clan territories.

Of the extent of ancient Offaly.

The Territory of Ui Failghe or Ophaley comprised the following Baronies, beyond any shade or doubt:-

1. Geshill in the King's Co.
2. Upper Philipstown in the King's Co.
3. Lower Philipstown, ibid.
4. Warrenstown in the same County.
5. Coolestown in the same.
6. Ophaley or Offaley in the Co. of Kildare.
7. Portnahinch in the Queen's County.
8. Tinahinch in the Queen's County.

This is the true extent and it will be seen that not even the one half of it is comprised in the King's County.

It was the Principality of O'Conor Faly, the senior representative of Rossa Failghe (the son of the Monarch Cahir More) who is said to have made an attempt at murdering St. Patrick because he thought that his object was to establish toleration and democratic principles, but he was very much mistaken.

Of the subdivisions of Ofaley.

Like Leix, the principality of Ofaley was originally subdivided into seven cantreds, which were ruled by seven petty chiefs of the noble blood of Rossa Failghe. These were:-

I. Tuath Geisille. The name and extent of this Tuath are retained in the present Barony of Geashill. It was the patrimonial inheritance of O'Avergin (Amergin) Anglicised Mergin and Bergin, now the name of a numerous and warlike family (tribe). Bergin, Geshill and the sky over it! (Geshil and Mergin or Bergin are nearly synonymous terms here. How long tradition preserves those recollections of ancient power!). They know right well that they are the only aristocratic blood of the district and one should be very diffident in asking one of them if he ever heard that any of the Amergins are yearly turned into wolves. It is said that Geshill has produced more and better British soldiers than any Barony in Ireland.

I have no pedigree of this family. Does Mac Firbisse give any account of them among the families of Ui Failghe?

II. Hy-Regan, now popularly called Dooregan and in Irish Duthaidh Ui Riagain. This territory was erected into the Barony of Tinahinch and lies in the Queen's County, as can be demonstrated from the old Map of Leax and Ophaly, from the tradition in the country, and from the Liber Regalis Visitationis of 1615, which states:-

"Dua! sunt Rectoriae in patria vocata O'Dun's Country detente in possessione Doctoris Dun. Ipse recipit decimas, sed nullus comparuit curatus as respondendu pro servicio Ecclesiae. Ideo fructus sequestrantur.

These two Rectories are set down in the margin as "O'Regan et Rosnolis." This is conclusive.

General Dun of Brittas at the foot of Slieve Bloom is the present heir of Taoisiuch na Toghla. His property, like those of most Irish chieftains, is much incumbered.

Joseph Dun of Killowen near the Great Heath of Maryborough is the next to him in point of seniority and respectability. He was an Officer in the French service and a man of chieftain size, being 6 feet 6 inches in height and 19 stone 9 lb. in weight. His House of Killowen, which has been in the possession of the family since Temp. Eliz., is marked on the Down Survey.

Sliocht Ui Dhuinn o dhutha Ui Riagain are exceedingly numerous in every part of this country. ...

III. Clann-Maoilughra, Anglice Clanmaliere and corruptly Glanmaliry. This territory certainly comprised the present Barony of Upper Philipstown in the King's County and the Barony of Fortnahinch in the Queen's Co. It contained the Castles of Leighe, Morette, Shane, Clonygowan and Ballykene and was divided nearly into two equal parts by the River Barrow. This was the Country of O'Dempsey, a name which would sound in the English, O'Proud (O! superbia). But their pride and glory are now eclipsed, there being not one independent or scarcely respectable man of the name on either side of the Barrow. And Cahir-na-gCapull seems to be (have been) the last respectable man of the name in Clanmaliere. Vae victis.

O'Dempsey was Viscount Clanmaliere during the War of 1641 but he lost all in the struggle and left his race a helpless people, unworthy of their name - Supervi progenies. ...

There was another family in Clonmaliere, of the name Mac Conduiligh, which is now probably the name Anglicised Connelly.

About the year 1164 Dermot O'Dempsey became chief of all Offaley and erected the Abbey of Monaster-Evin in that part of Offaly now lying in the County of Kildare. No other of the name ever became Prince of Offaley, but shortly after O'Conor Faly's downfall. O'Dempsey was created Viscount Clanmaliere, through what interest I know not, but it would appear that O'Dempsey assisted the Cosbys and other ferocious families to murder the Irish at Mullamast, and this is perhaps sufficient to account for his exaltation. But a reaction is sure to follow such massacres.

See Extracts from the Annals under the heads Ui Failghe and Clann Maoilughra.

IV. Clar Colgain, alias Clann Colgain. From many evidences now before me I have inferred that Clann Colgain is the present Barony of Lower Philipstown. First from O'Heerin's poem, which states that the chief of Clar Colgan bordered on the Grass of Cruachan, Do dhluthaigh le ceibh Chruachain. The other evidences shall appear presently under Tuathmuighe. ...

V. Tuath-Maighe, called in English Tuomuy and Tethmoy. We have many clues to the situation and extent of this ancient territory. Ware writes that Sir John de Birmingham, Earl of Louth, founded in the year 1325 a Monastery for Conventual Franciscans at (in) Totmoy or Thetmoy in Offaly, and that it was called from his own name, in the Irish tongue, Monasterfeoris or the Monastery of Mac Feoris. This is the present Monasteroris near Edenderry

And it shews Tuomuy as extending from the River Mongagh, which divides it from the County of Westmeath to the boundary of Clanmaliere in the one direction and from Edenderry to Philipstown in the other direction. From these evidences it can be safely inferred that Tuath-Muighe Nether and Upper were formed into the Baronies of Coolestown and Warrenstown.

This being established, it will be seen at once that the Triocha Ched of Clancolgan, "which lay at the Hill of Cruachan" could be no other than the Barony of Lower Philipstown, for you cannot place it in Gesill, which was itself a distinct Triocha Ched, nor in North Clanmaliere, which was another, nor in Tuathmuighe which was another.

Then by double false! position, where can we place this Candred of Centivilliarium?

No room remains for it but the Barony of Lower Philipstown, which will perfectly agree with its position at the Hill of Cruachan.

The Territory of Tuathmuighe was anciently the patrimonial inheritance of the O'Mulkenes, now Keane, but I have no pedigree nor record of them but O'Heerin's poem, q. vide supra.

VI. The sixth cantred in ancient Ofalia was Magh Aoife, the ancient inheritance of O'Murraghan (O'Murchain) now Anglicised into Murray. This is shewn on the old Map of Leax and Ophaly as Foranomurghan (Fearann Ui Murchain) i.e., O'Murchan's land and extending from near Monaster-Evin to near Rathangan and the Townland of Sheane, but this cannot be anything like its original extent as we learn from O'Huidhrin that O'Murchan's was an important and beautiful country. It is highly probable that before the Geraldines encroached on Ofalia that O'Murchan's Territory of Magh Aoifeextended eastwards to the foot of the Hill of Allen and so as to embrace the northern half of the Barony of Ophaley in the County of Kildare, in which the famous wood of Fiodh Gaibhle seems to have been situated.

VII. The last of the seven Territories of Ofalia mentioned by O'Heerin is Tuath-Leighe, the Paradise of O'Kelly. Where is this lovely land? I have no clue to it but one name which is not, perhaps, a bad guide to the discovery of at least its whereabouts, and one passage in Mageoghegan's Annals of Clonmacnoise. This is Caislean Leighe i.e., the Castle of Leighe, now Lea Castle mentioned by the Four Masters at the year 1452. This was certainly in O'Kelly's Country and it will appear from it that a considerable part of the Country of Leighe fell into the hands of the O'Dempseys of Clanmaliere, in whose country Lea Castle is placed on the old Map of Leax and Ophaly.

It would also appear that O'Kelly's beautiful Territory of Leighe was divided between the Geraldines and O'Dempseys after the O'Kellys were put down. The following passage in the Annals of Clonmacnoise as translated by Connell Mageoghegan will give some idea of the period at which the O'Kellys had possession of this territory:-

A.D. 1389. Morishe the Bald O'Connor of Offalie was killed with an arrow by one of the O'Kellys of Ley in Clanmaliere.

I have no pedigree of the O'Kelly of Leighe: does Mac Firbisse or the writers of the Books of Lecan or Ballymote mention him? Does he descend from Rossa Failghe?

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