TULLAMORE DISTILLERY AND "TULLAMORE
DEW".
A Famous Irish Distillery.
TRADITION gives
Tullamore an existence in the early years of the Christian era. There
is the story of Cahir Mhor, Irish Chieftain from A.D. 120 to 123, who
was said to have thirty sons, the eldest being called Ros Failghe-Ros
of the Rings. Ros's descendants formed the clan of Hy Failghe, who occupied
a large tract of country in the Midlands. The tribal name exists today
in the name of the county-Offaly.
Captain J. Williams, M.C
(Former Chairman B. Daly and Co., Ltd.)
Nestling in
the valley, under the heathery crest of the Slieve Bloom mountains, the
clan had their meeting place-the great assembly, Tullach Mhor. Nowadays
we call it Tullamore. It is the county capital, a prosperous market town
for a rich grain-growing district. It is noted, above all, as the seat
of a large Whiskey manufacturing industry-Bernard Daly's Distillery, widely
known now as The Tullamore Distillery.
UISGE BEATHA
Whiskey making
in the Irish Midlands dates back to the dim Celtic twilight. A very simple
process it was, too, in those days. The field of grain lay ripening in
the sun. It was cut and harvested, and a sheaf offered in thanksgiving.
Then flailed and winnowed, until the ears remained in a heap of pure gold
the bread of life.
The grain was
ground in a stone quern, and placed in a barrel of warm water to ferment.
The fermented liquor was boiled in a pot, and as the steam came off it
was condensed by means of a pipe laid in the cold water of the hill stream.
And lo and behold! The crystal-clear distillate-Uisge Beatha. The ears
of the barley sheaf, the bread of life, had been transformed into the
magic distilled essence-the water of life.
TULLAMORE WHISKEY IN THE SIXTEENTH
CENTURY
The Offaly
Whiskey in the Middle Ages was drunk largely for medicinal purposes; it
was regarded as a "sovereigne remedie" for all ailments. Queen Elizabeth,
I we are told, had a liking for it, and used to get an occasional sample
of a "caske of usquebaugh". And a substantial duty-free sample it was
too! Hollinshed, writing in 1577 on this ancient beverage, says: "It sloweth
age, it strengtheneth youth, it helpeth digestion, it cutteth flegme,
it relisheth the harte, it lighteneth the mynd, it quickeneth the spirits,
it cureth the hydropsie, it repelleth gravel . . . and trulie it is a
sovereigne liquor if it be orderlie taken".
Mr. Daniel E. Williams, who
worked for nearly sixty years in the distillery. Father of Capt. J. Williams
The Whiskey
of those days was quite a different beverage from the Whiskey now made
at Daly's Distillery. It was treble-distilled, and well laced with fruitjuices,
heather blooms, and herb infusions. It was what we now term a Liqueur.
The Celtic Missioners carried the recipes for these Liqueurs to the Continent
and they were lost to the Irish. But now, one has come back, the well-known
Liqueur, Irish Mist. The very old Whiskey on which Irish Mist is based
is made at the Tullamore Distillery for its associate company-The Irish
Mist Liqueur Co., Ltd.-and Irish Mist has already acquired a world-wide
fame, with a particularly wide distribution in the United States.
TULLAMORE DISTILLERY FOUNDED
1829
The present
distillery, situated in the heart of the town, on the banks of the river
Clodiagh, was founded by a famed distiller, Michael Molloy, as far back
as 1829. Soon the good name of his product spread through the country,
and with a bottle of Whiskey at that time costing only a few shillings,
a prosperous trade quickly grew up. On Mr. Molloy's death in 1857 the
property passed into the hands of his nephew, Bernard Daly, and in 1887
Mr. Daly's son, Captain Bernard Daly, took charge of the distillery.
Captain Daly
was a well-known sporting character in his day. He was Master of Hounds
in the county and an international polo player. He was a prominent owner
of racehorses, one of which won the Irish Oaks. It is said that he, and
one of the distillery officials, by name Daniel E. Williams, had their
shirts on it! And here we come to an important change in the management
of the distillery, a change which was responsible for the remarkable development
of this great Whiskey concern and the effect of which is felt even to
this day. Captain Daly, with his various sporting activities had little
time to devote to the distillery. Being a good judge of men, he saw at
once that Daniel E. Williams, who had worked in the distillery since he
was 15 years of age, was the man to be placed in charge.
Mr. Desmond J. Williams
(Director - D.E. Williams, Ltd., and the Irish Mist Liqueur Co., Ltd.)
So he promoted
him from engineer to general manager of the distillery. This might well
have been the origin of the well-known slogan "Give every man his Dew".
THE WILLIAMS FAMILY
Mr. Daniel
Williams was an outstanding personality. Energetic and enterprising, he
set out at once to enlarge the premises, and made substantial additions
and improvements to the distillery and plant. Whiskey stocks were increased,
and an extensive trade was built up both in the home and in the various
foreign markets. This remarkable man carried on work in the distillery
for nearly 60 years, and was still active at the time of his death in
1921. He was a noted benefactor of the poor, and his passing was mourned
by all. The management was then taken over by his son, Captain John Williams,
who had entered the distillery in 1918. Captain J. Williams served in
the British Army in the first world war and was awarded the Military Cross.
His son, Shaun, was killed whilst serving as a lieutenant in the Royal
Artillery in the Second World War.
Meanwhile,
in 1903, the distillery had been formed into a company, as B. Daly and
Co., Ltd., portion of the shares being held by Captain Daly and the remainder
by the Williams family. In 1931 Captain Daly resigned as director of the
board and the Williams family acquired all the shares in the company.
The present
directors of the company are: Captain John Williams, former chairman;
Mr. Daniel G. Williams, who entered the firm in 1938-present chairman
of the board; and Mr. Richard J. Williams, who entered in 1942, and Mr.
Daniel F. Williams (son of Capt. J. Williams) who entered in 1960.
DISTILLERY PREMISES
The distillery
premises cover an area of about 12 acres. The granaries hold 65,000 barrels
of grain - all purchased from the local farmers. There are capacious malting
floors, a feature of the distillery being the old-style pagoda-like kiln
for the drying of the malt. The grinding of the grain into meal is done
as of old, by means of a water wheel and grinding stones this is said
to make the best "mash".
Mr. Richard J. Williams
(Director - B. Daly and Co., Ltd., and D.E. Williams, Ltd.)
In the brewing
room are two mash tuns, each with a capacity of 15,000 gallons. Close
by are four hot water tanks, capable of holding 8,000 gallons each, the
water temperatures being controlled by steam coils. The wash backs are
of cedar wood, and hold 15,000 gallons each.
The show piece
of the distillery is the still house with its three shining copper pot
stills. Flat-bottomed with tall tapering still heads, a pipe leads on
to the worm, a long spiral copper tube in a cold water vat or worm tub.
While the illicit still in the bog holds less than half a dozen gallons,
the largest of these has a capacity of 18,000 gallons, and each of the
others 10,000 gallons. Beside the wash still is the wash charger, a east
iron vessel with a content of 18,000 gallons.
The extensive
warehouses contain many hundreds of thousands of pounds worth of dutiable
Whiskey. The distillery is capable of turning out half a million gallons
a year.
MAKING TULLAMORE WHISKEY
And now a word
on the making of the Whiskey. The harvesting and collecting of the grain
in Tullamore, like vintage time in French villages, is one of great activity,
aye and rejoicing. For the manufacture of the "Dew" is one of the town's
largest industries. Many extra hands are taken on during the working season,
and all are concerned in the magic transformation of the ears of the barley
sheaf into the finished Whiskey in the cask. And once the season starts
the distillery works day and night. The best Whiskey, it is said, runs
in the dim darkness of the night!
Mr. Daniel G. Williams
(Chairman - B. Daly and Co., Ltd.)
In making Tullamore
Whiskey, unmalted grains barley, wheat, oats and rye - are used along
with malt in the "mash". For some years, however, the firm has also made
an all-malt brew, to blend with their grain Whiskey for the export market.
The grain is
brought in to the firm's corn stores straight from the farms. It is first
screened. Mechanical separators get busy with it and all the foreign matter
from the corn fields goes one way through the shivering sieves, leaving
the grain perfectly clean. The myriad grains are now in for a terribJe
time. Great baths of water, known as "steeps", are prepared for them.
After this compulsory bath of two or three days, the water-sodden grains
are spread out on the concrete malt floors. Maltmen scatter them about
in showers with rhythmical sweeps of their wooden shovels, or shiels,
and after sprouting for eight days they are dried in the kilns. The all-powerful
malt is then ground into fine meal; the real job of Whiskey making now
begins.
MASHING AND FERMENTING THE
GRAIN
Two gigantic
mash tuns are ready to receive the grist. Hot water from the tanks is
poured in, and mechanically-operated rakes whirl round and mix the mash
thoroughly. For some two hours the mash lies in a communion that gives
birth to an important issue. The solid albuminous body in the malt, called
diastase, has converted the starch in the grain into sugar. The cloudy
insipid gruel in the mash tun has become a semitransparent sweet liquid.
The taps at
the bottom of the tun are now turned on to allow the liquor to drain to
the underback, whence it is pumped through the refrigerating plant to
the wash backs. The grains are re-mashed three or four times before emptying
the tun. The exhausted grains, or "draft"', are taken away each day in
farm carts for cattle feeding. Fresh mashes are made every eight hours
during the brewing period.
The Mill Wheel which grinds
the corn for distilling - over 100 years old.
And now into
the wash backs enters the mysterious yeast to set the whole in a ferment,
a few hundredweights to each back. Down goes the lid very carefully. Innocently
enough the trouble starts, by sending up bubbles that plop softly. Soon
a frothy head forms and rises to the top of the vessel. Within half an
hour a vigorous fermentation takes place; the backs rock and roar, with
the automatic switches going at full speed. For two to three days the
ferment rages, and then subsides the alcohol, Whiskey in embryo, is born.
The yeast is dead, and sinks to the bottom. The wash is ready for the
still.
DISTILLING IN POT STILLS
The wash still
is charged, fire belches underneath, and the liquor comes to the boil.
The vapour rises, travels along the "lyne" arm of the still to the worm,
where it is condensed and flows into the "safe". This is a glass-sided
structure, holding test tubes, and other mystic paraphernalia of the still
man. From the safe the Spirit cascades with the music of a mountain stream
into a large oak receiver.
This is distilled
Spirits - but is it Whiskey? Not on your life. Back it goes for re-distillation
and again a third time. Now we are coming to the baby Whiskey- but not
quite yet. The first run, or foreshot, is a very strong Spirit, too heavily
charged with oils to mature into a good Whiskey. Very carefully the still
man, with his sampling beads, keeps testing the "run" until the Spirit,
at the proper strength, shows clear in the glass.
This is now
the "real stuff"- he switches the flow into the Spirit receiver. Towards
the end the Spirits gradually weaken in strength and become impure, so
back it goes for re-distilling. And this complicated sequence from receiver
to still and back again goes on day and night during the distilling period,
until eventually the pure Whiskey, collected in the receiver, is heavily
padlocked by the Excise-man. He even secretes bits of paper, dated and
signed, in the inner bosom of the locks, so carefully does he guard the
precious liquid. Bank notes or bullion could not be watched over with
greater care.
Laboratory Assistant at work
in Tullamore Distillery.
This new Spirit
is not yet suitable for drinking. Seven long years at least must pass
before it matures -seven days of man's tine and seven years of its own.
Even a longer period must elapse before it is considered ripe for blending
as "Tullamore Dew".
AGEING THE WHISKEY
Let us now
take you over to the Spirit store with its enormous vat of new Whiskey
- a sight surely for the gods. The strength in the receiver was 50 o.p.
It is reduced in the store vat to 25 o.p.; this is regarded as the ideal
strength for maturation.
The young Spirit
is filled into butts, hogsheads, puncheons, and quarter casks of American
oak and Sherry casks. The distillery is fortunate in having as its associate
firm Messrs. D. E. Williams, Ltd., whose extensive Wine trade enables
them to supply a large quantity of Sherry casks.
The casks,
in their thousands, the content and year marked on the head, are duly
rolled into the distillery warehouses. Here, year in, year out, they lie,
their long lines stacked in the dim half light, reminiscent of the cloisters
of some old monastery. Dust grows on the casks and silence wraps the wood
which contains the elements of the zest of life. The Whiskey grows old
and matures. Don't imagine, however, that the carefully distilled liquid
in these ghost-haunted vaults is forgotten. Not at all. The dusty casks
are constantly under the cooper's care. Week after week, with his hand
lamp or electric torch, he taps each cask to see that none of the precious
liquid leaks through the staves.
A CONNOISSEUR'S WHISKEY
What precisely
takes place inside the magic wood of the casks during the long years in
bond remains one of nature's mysteries. Chemists have been unable to explain.
But the palate knows right well. The Spirit when first bonded has a raw,
nauseous odour and is quite undrinkable. But at eight years old what a
change! The pungent taste of the baby Spirit has disappeared; the Spirit
has become mild and pleasantly mellow. The flavouring oils, by contact
with air through the pores of the wood, have undergone change into fragrant
and delicious esters and ethers. Aromatic flavours are born and developed
to their full richness, giving the Whiskey its characteristic bouquet.
Firing a Still - on peat.
To produce
the perfect Whiskey, four things are said to be essential - sound barley,
mountain air, pure water, and distilling craft. Here then in the centre
of Ireland nature has provided all the requisites for Whiskey making.
Well-ripened golden grain from the fertile fields of Offaly, fresh air
from the Slieve Bloom hills, water laden with essences from local peat
mosses, and a distilling tradition going back to the days of the illicit
stills - all these combine to make "Tullamore" a classic Whiskey. It is,
indeed, fit usquebaugh for connoisseurs.
The Cooperage
- where all the casks are examined and coopered prior to filling
- in an old orchard
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Initial
stage of mashing operation. Capacity 13,000 gallons.
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Refrigeration
- reducing temperature of the worts before fermentation
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End view
of some distillery warehouses along the Clodiagh river.
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Farmer
drawing 'sludge' for cattle feeding. (Sludge is residue from brewing
tank - liquid).
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Excise
officer 'dipping' a cask.
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THE BOTTLED "DEW"
The distillery
company and its associate firm, D. E. Williams, Ltd., have extensive vatting
and bottling stores, which cater for their large number of branch retail
establishments in the Midlands of Ireland, a wholesale Wine and Spirit
trade covering the thirty-two counties, and their export markets.
Now to put
the Whiskey into the bottle. Each cask has its own distinctive Whiskey,
and a careful selection is made for vatting in order to produce a standard
high-grade Whiskey worthy of the firm. In the vat the Spirit is reduced
to within a few degrees of drinking strength, and when well roused the
various Whiskies are allowed to rest for some time prior to bottling.
This ensures proper mixing and helps the "marrying" process.
The bottling
plant, with modern filters, labelling and capsuling machines, is the last
word in efficiency. The Whiskey is pumped through a filter to a series
of revolving syphon tubes every time the machine makes a complete revolution
enough bottles to pack a case have been filled without spilling a drop.
And what precious golden liquid the bottles hold - the brew of the barley
sheaf. Whiskey from Bernard Daly's Distillery, bottled by the House of
Williams, ready to go out to the world's markets under the label -"Tullamore
Dew". "Give every man his Dew".
PATENT DISTILLING PLANT
And these distillers,
with their long tradition, keep a keen watch on current trends in the
whiskey trade. As an adjunct to their pot still distillery, they installed
some fifteen years ago the most modern type of patent distilling apparatus
known as the Coffey still-invented by an Irishman, needless to say. Under
one roof, so to speak, they produce all the ingredients for blends of
malt, pot still and patent still whiskey. In addition to their "vintage"
Irish whiskey of traditional standard they now ship to overseas markets
a blended whiskey which competes on equal terms with anything produced
on either side of the Atlantic. This whiskey is much lighter in character
than the not mal Irish Pot Still product and is the only Malt and Patent
Still Blend now being offered from Ireland. Although straight Irish Pot
Still Whiskey is regarded here as the finest, consumer taste outside this
country finds it somewhat different to the idea of whiskey flavour which
has been acquired and developed through a knowledge of other long-established
blended whiskies. Under its brand name "TULLAMORE DEW", this Specially
Light Blended Whiskey has aroused most favourable interest in the larger
world markets where its merits are clearly illustrated by continually
increasing and more widespread demand.
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